Fried Chicken Three Ways | The New Yorker

"I visited Rowdy Rooster, a small East Village counter from the warningly named Unapologetic Foods (the group behind Dhamaka) that roared onto the scene in February, and found incendiary fried-chicken sandwiches ($9–$12) that let you choose Lil’ Rowdy sliders or Big Rowdy sandwiches, small bone-in pieces, or boneless chunks. The sandwiches—on pao for the Lil’ or slightly dry potato buns for the Big—feature thickly battered, juicy leg meat, deep-fried and showered with spice powder that seeps into the jagged crust, topped with red onion, mint-and-cilantro chutney, and a bit of yogurt sauce. Spice levels are central to the experience: Rascal is mild, Ruffian is inoffensive and barely spicy, Rebel is a hot, fruity, slightly sweet hum of heat, Rogue is an intense burn that sinks in and lingers, and Rowdy is a fearsome, long-game extreme that demands heat-tolerating genes." - Shauna Lyon