"The other night at Libertine, a new French bistro in the West Village, a server described the Gnocchi Parisienne: unlike their Italian counterparts, they were made without potato—“just flour.” After a pale pillowy puff, coated in a rich Sungold-tomato sauce flecked with spring onions and fennel, seemed to melt on my tongue, I waved him back over. “Only flour?” I asked, incredulous. “Oh,” he said, “well, also butter and egg.” Bien sûr. French pasta is French pastry: pâte à choux , gently simmered, then browned in more butter." - Hannah Goldfield