"In 1974, an Italian immigrant named Angelo Carlino and his wife, Roula, opened a restaurant and pizzeria called Papa Leone, in Manhattan Beach. When they retired, in 2017, the place closed; their three children had chosen other careers. But when the pandemic began their son Salvatore returned to New York from Berlin, where he’d been working as a d.j., and, with time on his hands, started experimenting with pizza in his parents’ back yard. One thing led to another. After ruling out Bushwick, near where he lives (he felt it was oversaturated, from a pizza perspective), he found a corner storefront in Sheepshead Bay, not far from where Papa Leone had been, and opened Lucia Pizza of Avenue X (2201 Avenue X, Brooklyn; pizzas from $18.50)." - Hannah Goldfield