Inside One MICHELIN Star Semma, a Taste of South India in Manhattan

"An unapologetic ode to Chef Vijay Kumar’s South Indian childhood, this One MICHELIN Star West Village restaurant channels family recipes with dishes like his mom’s mung bean salad, grandma’s snails, venison inspired by countryside hunts, and goat intestines—often served atop banana leaves. Southern staples such as Dindigul biryani (goat) and attu kari sukka (lamb) anchor a menu that many diners say tastes “exactly” like the streets of Chennai and Madurai. A standout gunpowder dosa—Kumar’s long-perfected first dish—comes from a two-to-three-day process: soaking and fermenting lentils before griddling the batter and pairing it with sambar plus coconut and turmeric chutneys, each component labor-intensive and layered. Drinks weave in hometown flavors like paan and kokum syrup, while the space evokes home with lush greenery, a ceiling echoing Kerala houseboats, iconic South Indian chairs, and vibrant, traditional art—including a Kathakali-inspired mural symbolizing human emotions. The result is a “home away from home” that brings back authenticity and old roots to New York City, and true to its Tamil name, it is semma—fantastic, superb, and itself." - Michael He