Sofreh Review - Prospect Heights - New York - The Infatuation
"Sofreh does Persian food with style. At this Prospect Heights restaurant, the food is painted with housemade yogurt, covered in finely chopped herbs, and bejeweled with pomegranate seeds that sparkle like small rubies. Forgoing the big kebab platters or bowls of stew that you’ll find in the city’s (very few) older Persian restaurants, Sofreh focuses instead on smaller, beautiful plates of food that are more suited for a chic date night, or impressing an out-of-towner. photo credit: Kate Previte Pretty as this food is, nothing is just for decoration. At Sofreh, the concept of a garnish might as well not exist. Do a close reading of the menu, and you’ll notice that those herbs, fruits, and nuts get main billing, right alongside things like lamb shank and striped bass. Each ingredient is vital—as chef Nasim Alikhani will confirm, when she inevitably stops by your table for a short tête à tête, like she’s hosting guests in her own home. The day’s haul is a frequent topic of conversation: Maybe the right cucumbers have been hard to come by this week, but the yogurt, made in-house, is especially good today. photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte Take your server’s suggestions for the perfect combination of dips, rice dishes and larger entrees that best showcase every facet of this cuisine. Tucked into a side street off Flatbush Ave., Sofreh fits easily into the date night rotation of people in the neighborhood who usually alternate between Faun and Fausto on the same street. But it’s also an excellent education in Persian food, which makes it worth seeking out no matter where you’re coming from. Food Rundown photo credit: Kate Previte Eggplant and Whey Dip The whey in this dish (kashk, which is made out of strained yogurt and a common Persian ingredient), brings an immense amount of tart, umami flavor. Underneath, there’s smoky roasted eggplant with flesh that falls apart in the middle. photo credit: Kate Previte Maitake Mushrooms You can always count on maitake mushrooms to bring plenty of meaty flavor (and mass) to the table, but again, the whey gives it that extra oomph that makes the dish. photo credit: Kate Previte Tahini & Date Salad Petite heads of red baby gem lettuce, barely visible under a puddle of tahini, are topped with dates, pink radishes, and a heavy dusting of sesame seeds. Dried fruit in a salad is nothing revelatory, but the combination of sweet dates, sharp radishes and a tahini that’s surprisingly spicy really show off the unexpected, but balanced, combinations Sofreh does best. The toasted sesame seeds on top aren’t just there to enhance the tahini, but provide a sweeter, nuttier version of the flavor altogether. photo credit: Kate Previte Catch of the Day The catch of the day is usually a wild-caught striped bass, or wild-caught black sea bass. It comes in a spicy and herbaceous tamarind stew, which overpowers the fish a bit, but it’s a very good, herbaceous and sour sauce, so still worth the order. It helps that the filet also has super crispy skin and edges. photo credit: Kate Previte Lamb Shank The lamb here is thoroughly seasoned and falls apart into the dried lime and dill stew, just as soon as you tickle it with your fork." - Neha Talreja
