"Manteca has a large dining room that feels constantly full. There are people crowding into booths for lunches that involve pappardelle with duck ragu. Early days relationships, hiding parts of themselves but sharing focaccia. And counter-cruisers ordering two plates of this, two glasses of that. This is one of London’s best Italian restaurants. It’s stylish and assured, with accomplished, comforting dishes—deep-fried pig’s head with mostarda and brown crab cacio e pepe—that are just a little creative. Order pasta, yes, but don’t ignore the house-cured, Rizla-thin salumi either." - heidi lauth beasley, jake missing, daisy meager