"It’s semi-tragic how the lasagna at I Sodi has become an internet celebrity. Every few minutes, you see a block of the stuff, all 20-odd layers, exiting the kitchen, and you want to stand up and say, “It’s not even the best thing here.” You should, of course, try the lasagna. But if it’s your first impression of this place, you’re bound to get the wrong idea. Since the old days, when it was housed in a shoebox on Grove Street, this restaurant has excelled at simple Tuscan dishes. Lasagna aside, the food has a humble, home-cooked feel. At their current, expanded home on Bleecker, not much has changed. I Sodi continues to serve some of the most impressive, understated Italian food in New York City, now in a larger space with plenty of bar seating and twice as many tables. Compared to eternally chaotic sister restaurant , this place feels like the reading room at the New York Public Library. The walls are mostly bare and white, the chairs have just enough padding to reach a minimum threshold of comfort, and there’s often jazz playing in the background, at such a low volume that you think you might be hearing things. It’s a place where you can have a conversation, covering such topics as the aesthetically worn ceiling beams, shelves of amari, and order in which you prioritize the pastas on the menu. If the lasagna isn’t the best dish at I Sodi, what is? Is it the pappardelle al limone garnished with the tiniest spritz of black pepper? Or the chewy, hand-rolled pici with pesto so coarse it looks like it was chopped by a lawnmower? Maybe it’s the slaw-like salad soaked in robiola. Or the fried artichoke hearts that, as some sort of mind game or power play, are always offered as a “special.” Honestly, there is no single best dish at I Sodi. Everything leans heavily on quality ingredients—mainly, cheese and olive oil—and even that lasagna is worth a special visit. It’s a little out of character for a restaurant that feels like the antithesis of a TikTok trap, but if you don’t mind a ten-to-one ratio of pasta to sauce, have at it. Once you check that lasagna off your list, you can use I Sodi in a more productive way: As a tidy, grown-up spot for a special meal that involves hearty, unpretentious Italian food. The current space isn’t as charming as the original, but at least now you have a chance of getting a seat—most likely at the bar, which is great for pairs and solo diners. When the host quotes you a two-hour wait, it’s important to remember two things: The wait used to be longer, and a three-hour wait would still be worth it. " - Bryan Kim
