I Sodi - Review - West Village - New York - The Infatuation
"It’s semi-tragic how the lasagna at I Sodi has become an internet celebrity. Every few minutes, you see a block of the stuff, all 20-odd layers, exiting the kitchen, and you want to stand up and say, “It’s not even the best thing here.” You should, of course, try the lasagna. But if it’s your first impression of this place, you’re bound to get the wrong idea. Since the old days, when it was housed in a shoebox on Grove Street, this West Village restaurant has excelled at simple Tuscan dishes. Lasagna aside, the food has a humble, home-cooked feel. At their current, expanded home on Bleecker, not much has changed. I Sodi continues to serve some of the most impressive, understated Italian food in New York City, now in a larger space with plenty of bar seating and twice as many tables. Put your name in for a bar stool, and start with a negroni.photo credit: The Infatuation There's additional seating in a quiet room in the back.photo credit: The Infatuation Possibly the most coveted patio tables in Lower Manhattan.photo credit: The Infatuation Pause Unmute Compared to eternally chaotic sister restaurant Via Carota, this place feels like the reading room at the New York Public Library. The walls are mostly bare and white, the chairs have just enough padding to reach a minimum threshold of comfort, and there’s often jazz playing in the background, at such a low volume that you think you might be hearing things. It’s a place where you can have a conversation, covering such topics as the aesthetically worn ceiling beams, shelves of amari, and order in which you prioritize the pastas on the menu. If the lasagna isn’t the best dish at I Sodi, what is? Is it the pappardelle al limone garnished with the tiniest spritz of black pepper? Or the chewy, hand-rolled pici with pesto so coarse it looks like it was chopped by a lawnmower? Maybe it’s the slaw-like salad soaked in robiola. Or the fried artichoke hearts that, as some sort of mind game or power play, are always offered as a “special.” photo credit: The Infatuation photo credit: The Infatuation photo credit: The Infatuation Pause Unmute Honestly, there is no single best dish at I Sodi. Everything leans heavily on quality ingredients—mainly, cheese and olive oil—and even that lasagna is worth a special visit. It’s a little out of character for a restaurant that feels like the antithesis of a TikTok trap, but if you don’t mind a ten-to-one ratio of pasta to sauce, have at it. Once you check that lasagna off your list, you can use I Sodi in a more productive way: As a tidy, grown-up spot for a special meal that involves hearty, unpretentious Italian food. The current space isn’t as charming as the original, but at least now you have a chance of getting a seat—most likely at the bar, which is great for pairs and solo diners. When the host quotes you a two-hour wait, it’s important to remember two things: The wait used to be longer, and a three-hour wait would still be worth it. Food Rundown Verza Via Carota makes great salads, so it shouldn’t be surprising that I Sodi does as well. Depending on how hungry you are, this one could be a whole meal. It consists of crisp shredded cabbage, with walnuts, raisins, and a creamy robiola dressing that would seem excessive if it didn’t taste so good. photo credit: The Infatuation Insalata Di Carciofi This salad is I Sodi in a nutshell. Featuring planks of parm layered over artichokes, it’s plain and simple, and it tastes like pure cheese and olive oil. photo credit: The Infatuation Pappardelle Al Limone The pappardelle al limone at I Sodi deserves recognition as one of the top 10 pastas in New York City (alongside the cacio e pepe from Via Carota). It’s a minimalist dish, with a dash of black pepper, a strong hint of lemon, and a perfect bouncy texture. photo credit: The Infatuation Lasagna A Sugo As far as we can tell, this is the single most popular dish at I Sodi. With around 20 layers of pasta, the lasagna has a sort of custardy texture, and it does, mostly, taste like pasta. Could it use a little more of the well-spiced meat sauce? Of course. But if you added anything else to this thing, we’re pretty sure it would topple over. Try it once, twice, or maybe three times. Just be aware that the paccheri is technically better. photo credit: The Infatuation Paccheri The paccheri doesn't look as impressive as the lasagna, but the ratios are much better. We love the way the rich, meat sauce clings to the inside of each al dente tube of pasta. Pici When your server tells you about the daily specials, don’t space out. There are always interesting limited-edition items available, like a bowl of pici the size of gummy worms drowning in forest green pesto. Peposo The mains (aka, secondi) are entirely optional at I Sodi. It’s not that they’re bad or disappointing, it’s just that the pastas come in surprisingly large portions, and you’re going to want several. If you do have room, try the tender, peppery short rib over a bed of polenta. photo credit: The Infatuation Cotoletta Alla Milanese Another solid choice, the coteletta is exactly what it sounds like: a large piece of breaded and fried pork. The crust has a good, crunchy sear, and the flaky sea salt is a very nice touch. Spritz some lemon over the top, and enjoy. photo credit: The Infatuation Negroni Always start with a negroni. I Sodi does a bunch of variations, all of which are perfectly sweet, bitter, boozy, and chuggable. If you want to branch out, try the Invernale, made with bourbon. photo credit: Alex Staniloff" - Bryan Kim
