"Ops perfected their sourdough long before everyone jumped on the naturally leavened dough-train. Each time we eat here, their wood-fired pizzas seem to get tangier. In terms of style, Ops’ pies fit somewhere between crispy New York and soppy-in-the-middle Neapolitan: each slice remains straight when you hold it in the air, but the crust puffs up like a balloon. Truthfully it doesn’t matter what you call the style. What matters is that you’re going to want to come to their dimly lit, sexy sourdough pizza emporium in Bushwick every week, like you owe them starter money." - bryan kim, willa moore, kenny yang, carlo mantuano, molly fitzpatrick