"To understand why the French say, “Tout est bon dans le cochon” (“Everything in the pig is good”), head to this Belleville old faithful. Dishes at this barebones bistro mostly revolve around offal, and are more creative and delicious than the next—pork snout terrine, crispy pig's ears, poached calf’s brain doused in lemon butter. It’s no surprise that Parisians have been sitting on these worn leather banquettes for over 30 years—and that’s despite (or is it thanks to?) its almost comically ornery maitre’d, who seems straight out of central casting for “disgruntled Frenchman.” He's part of the charm, but not the reason why we return to this spot again and again. Grab a group of friends who don’t turn their noses up at nose, and won’t think twice about swapping plates so that everyone can try every dish." - emily monaco
