"Septime, ever heard of it? When it opened in Charonne in 2011, the pioneering neo-bistro took all the stiffness out of bistro dining, made the cuisine more creative and unpretentious, threw in natural wines, and kicked off a movement. This casual yet still sophisticated spot has been full non-stop ever since, and we’d even say the restaurant put the 11th arrondissement on the dining map. After all, they managed to get loyal Left Bankers to cross the river to eat here. The dining room is a relaxed chic you might find in the French countryside, with farm tables and weathered wood, lots of freshly cut flowers, and even a window nook that looks out onto a leafy garden courtyard. But it’s the menu of inventive, seasonal dishes that you’re coming to experience. photo credit: Septime photo credit: Septime And what you experience changes nearly every day, and usually involves at least one obscure herb or ingredient that needs an explainer, which the well-versed staff in jeans, linen aprons, and Veja sneakers are more than happy to provide. What’s that purée-looking component on the plate? They’ll tell you it was a black cardamom-infused apple mousseline that went with the barbecue grilled endive. That unfamiliar paste in another dish? Could be fermented limequat that balances out the raw langoustine tostada cooked in a paprika and saffron rouille. You’ll find the same level of attention from the sommelier, who will have you firmly on team natural wine by the end of the meal. Key to the experience at the €85, five-course lunch and €135, seven-course dinner is a menu of surprise dishes that play up the country’s best seafood, meat, and produce. Dishes are simple in presentation, with only a few elements on the plate at once, but striking like mini edible works of art. And like any good composition, they’re likely to inspire a few oohs and aahs at the table. If there’s any downside to Septime it’s this: it’s typically full of English-speaking chef groupies and bucket-list food tourists, and is notoriously challenging to reserve. Bookings open online three weeks in advance at 10am CET and fill up in milliseconds. Still, if you like waking up in the middle of the night and are blessed with patience (and manage to succeed, of course), you’ll be rewarded with a meal at one of the most era-defining restaurants in Paris. Food Rundown Septime’s menu changes constantly, so here are some dishes from past menus to give you an idea of what to expect. Smoked Onions With Juniper Goat Cheese Most dishes at Septime look like art and the roasted smoked simiane onions, served with juniper goat cheese sauce, wilted sorel, and pickled pine buds, is one such example. Tuna In Multiple Ways Fish prepared multiple ways is just more fun to eat. For one course, you might get raw tuna stuffed into a barbecue grilled flatbread, fresh herbs, and garlic sour cream. For another, it’ll be dry-aged line-caught tuna, slightly cured in kombu, plated in slices and seasoned with fermented peach juice and rose oil. Grilled Brioche Desserts are ever-evolving and play up whatever’s in season. If you’re lucky, they’ll be a direct path to straight umami like this bread. A generous scoop of yeasty brown butter ice cream hides a slightly sweet grilled brioche base. A squiggle of luscious caramel is the perfect sweet contrast to the dark and nutty black truffle shavings shredded like parmesan on top. The first bite will be as deeply satisfying as watching the ice cream slowly ooze across the plate after you dig in." - Lindsey Tramuta
