"Zelai Txiki up in the hills above the Gros neighborhood is one of the city’s top local favorites. They’ve been open for two decades and keep improving—they recently installed a wood-fired oven (where they bake their own bread), built out the wine cellar, and started their own garden. All of these upgrades are exactly the reason why locals keep coming back, but the creamy rice with clams, grilled wild turbot kissed with garlic and olive oil, and whole suckling pig Segovia-style doesn’t hurt, either. When making a reservation, ask for a seat on the terrace that overlooks the city." - marti buckley