"This extravagant courtyard was once home to the Bagatti Valsecchi nobles (you can tour their house museum upstairs to see how the other half lived). An while it’s possible to burn a hole in your designer bag with a feast of lobster and Champagne, Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone’s risotto, pastas, and salads are all worth a smaller splurge. Order the paccheri with fresh tuna, cherry tomatoes, pine nuts, and mint, or the buttery yellow risotto alla Milanese—they don’t skimp on the saffron here. In the morning, you can start your day with a coffee, brioche, and a dash of aristocracy at Il Salumaio’s charming cafe in the same building. It’s one of the few places in the area where you can sit down for breakfast before the shops open." - Elizabeth De Filippo-Jones
