"At Kiln, the heat of the glowing coals pulsates against your head and if you’re looking for respite, you better slurp the rest of that blazing jungle curry down first. The Thai restaurant on Brewer Street is hot in more ways than one, though it continues to be one of the coolest and most exciting restaurants in London. It's walk-in-only, and a bun fight seven days a week is standard here. But boy is it worth it. There’s electric laap, aromatic curries, and crab claypot noodles you could eat by the trough. Sitting at Kiln’s counter, surrounded by those waiting for a seat, you’re reminded of what eating out in Soho should always feel like. Smug, flavour-packed and, most of all, invigorating. photo credit: Kiln photo credit: Kiln photo credit: Kiln photo credit: Kiln Once sat, there are regulars like tender slow-grilled chicken and a charred cull yaw and cumin skewer, but other things on the menu regularly switch up. A research trip to Thailand might see a grey mullet laap mee spend some time on the menu, a month later you could be eating beef shin and wild garlic curry. It’s restless, searing food that’s always on the move. If upstairs is like being at the barrier of a gig, then Kiln’s downstairs feels more backstage. This slower-paced den, good for groups and those faint of heart, loses the frenetic energy of the counter. Either way, everyone leaves Kiln in the same heady, enlivened, and mid-comedown state. Come back soon though, because Kiln will have something else up its sleeve." - Jake Missing
