"In September, much of the West Coast experienced a double-whammy of existential crises: The pandemic and catastrophic wildfires. And on one of those deeply disconcerting mornings, when I’d walk outside and my car would be gray from the ash raining down from the sky, I’d drive straight to La Azteca for a chile relleno burrito. This Mexican takeout spot in East LA is the grandmaster of tortillerias, and they make my favorite burrito in town. It’s a comforting, dachshund-sized wonder, filled with deep-fried poblano chilies, three kinds of cheese, and a healthy portion of pinto beans and carnitas. And it’s all wrapped up in one of their remarkably tasty flour tortillas, made with enough salty rendered pork fat that I’d happily eat them on their own. It’s almost enough to make me forget about any of the numerous terrible things about 2020. Or at least give me the energy to finally wash the ashes off my car. - BK" - Brant Cox, Kat Hong, Brett Keating, James Montgomery
