"Wong Kei doesn’t care if you need a wifi password. Chinatown’s most infamous Cantonese canteen is a beautifully scruffy time capsule that’s unashamedly stayed put in more ways than one. It’s an ode to food as fuel, cheap and cheerful wonton soups, and ladles of gravy on top of roast pork and rice. Of course, there will be plenty of people on their phones or plugged in over Wong Kei’s two floors. But that’s a choice. If you suspend your disbelief, bring a book or, better still, spend your time observing and slurping, you’ll easily forget anything that’s going on online." - heidi lauth beasley, jake missing, rianne shlebak, sinead cranna