"This weekend-only pop-up is more like a neighborhood kickback than a bagel shop. Kendrick occasionally plays from the speakers, blasting DJ Mustard’s “MUSTARRDDD” line. There’s no signage, a handful of tables are scattered out front, and the whole operation runs on a “we’re here until we’re not attitude.” But none of that matters once you get your hands on their incredible sourdough bagels that you’ll see emerging from the tiny kitchen every few minutes. The crackly, blistered crust sends flakes everywhere like a Nature Valley bar, but it’s a glorious mess that you won’t bother brushing off until the bagel is gone. If you merely keep it simple with a few loosies, which come in flavors such as salted plain, toasted sesame, everything, and nori everything, plus schmears like miso scallion or chimichurri, you’ll leave very happy. That said, the open-faced sandwiches are where things get interesting. The Grampa Sam is their excellent albeit fairly straightforward interpretation of a classic lox bagel, but for something less traditional, there's the Deanna Michelle layered with chili oil and cucumbers, and the Weezy, a breakfast-dessert hybrid with cocoa spread and bananas—two of our favorites. We’re not sure what the future holds for Mustard’s, but from our view, it looks pretty bright. Their crackly dough rings are absolutely worth planning your weekend around and are the most exciting addition to LA’s bagel scene since Courage landed on Virgil. Our sole advice is to make sure you arrive early, since they usually sell out by 1pm. There’s excellent single-origin coffee available while you wait in line, but since Mustard’s is run by one of the founders of GGET, don’t expect any cream or sugar to be on hand. Food Rundown photo credit: Cathy Park Grampa Sam This is what happens when a classic lox bagel adds some pizzazz. You’ve got house-smoked salmon draped over a crackly sourdough base, while the pickled onions and cucumbers add a refreshing pop. The fried capers are a fun surprise—crunchy flavor bombs that taste like salty Pop Rocks. photo credit: Cathy Park Deanna Michelle A simple but brilliant combination of toppings that reminds us of Din Tai Fung’s cold cucumbers in bagel form. The miso-scallion schmear lays down a solid base of umami, the crisp cucumbers are neatly tiled like dominoes, and the chili oil seeps into every nook and cranny." - Cathy Park
