"We're not sure the exact moment it happened—maybe it was always the case—but at some point, LA became a hotbed for big, oversized Italian sandwiches. In recent years, places like Lorenzo California, Tre Mani, Bread Head, All’Antico Vinaio, and Mamie have all thrown their hats into the Great Focaccia Ring (trademark pending) and continue to have lines that snake out the door. It’s fair to wonder if there’s still room for a place like Bay Cities, an old-school, family-owned Italian deli in Santa Monica that dates back to 1925 that's home to one of the most recognizable sandwiches in the city. We're here to tell you that the answer is still, unequivocally, yes. We don’t need to overexplain the Godmother. This cold-cut behemoth is arguably as synonymous with the Westside as palm trees and traffic on the 405. If you’re at Bay Cities, you’re almost certainly getting one. But there are some important tips to know before you unwrap. For starters, always order online and bypass the line. Second, always order your sandwich with “The Works” (dressing, hot peppers, mustard, mayonnaise, lettuce, tomatoes, pickles, and onions). And finally, don’t worry about eating your sandwich right away—in fact, we find this particular sandwich benefits from a little “aging.” Bay Cities’ dense, chewy Italian rolls, while flavorful, can be a bit tough, but after stewing in the sub's juices for a half-hour or so, the peppers and dressing ever so slightly soak into the bread and produce a more harmonious sandwich. That’s why ordering “The Works” is key. photo credit: Benji Dell Bay Cities is more than just the Godmother, though. There are nearly 50 other sandwiches on the menu, many of which have their own loyal following, like the bologna-topped Poorboy or the Little Don Lorenzo with prosciutto and roasted tomatoes. It’s also a great specialty market in general. Even if you order online, give yourself a few minutes to browse the cheese counter, wine area, and aisles of imported goods. Don’t be surprised when you walk out with three sandwiches and some hand-painted dinner plates under your arm. Food Rundown photo credit: Kim Fox Godmother Stacked with prosciutto, mortadella, capicola, salami, ham, and provolone, this Italian cold-cut combo isn’t necessarily vastly different from what you’d find at other old-school delis around town, but’s its superior in one crucial way: “The Works.” It’s the messy, drippy combination of hot pickled peppers and various condiments that elevate this icon from being just another sandwich, to being the sandwich. photo credit: Brant Cox Poorboy The biggest argument around Bay Cities isn’t whether or not the Godmother is the best sandwich. It’s the best sandwich after the Godmother. For us, it’s the Poorboy. The mix of fluffy, slighty sweet thin-sliced bologna with pickled hot peppers is simple perfection. photo credit: Benji Dell Chicken Salad Sandwich “There’s too much mayonnaise on this chicken salad.” If you ever hear someone say that, start running, because you aren’t safe. And then run right to Bay Cities' counter and order this hearty, mayo-enriched version packed with chicken. It never disappoints. photo credit: Benji Dell Caprese This is a solid caprese, but sometimes the ingredients are a bit skimpy and it feels like you’re just eating a loaf of olive-oil-slicked bread. Upgrade by adding the burrata to plump up the interior a bit. photo credit: Benji Dell Little Don Lorenzo This combo of prosciutto di parma, mozzarella, roasted tomatoes, olive oil, and basil is a balanced winner. It’s like a caprese that used to be vegetarian, then started eating meat again. The use of roasted tomatoes in lieu of standard raw is crucial, too. photo credit: Benji Dell Turkey Pesto Bay Cities has six turkey sandwiches on the menu, and you don’t need any of them. They’re not bad, but there’s no reason to venture into the heart of Santa Monica to eat a turkey sandwich you could find at any respectable sub shop." - Brant Cox
