"Les Ba’get in Garden Oaks serves Vietnamese restaurant classics supersized with slabs of oak-smoked brisket and massive orders of seared bone marrow. While fancy meat is fancy, here the buzzy toppings feel like the facade of a ghost town. The counter-service cafe feels casual, as people crowd around the one register peeking from behind a wall of plumbing-pipe shelving. And while the spring rolls are filled with tasty mango shrimp or smoked brisket, each roll costs about $8 and is so massive, attempting to eat it without spilling the contents all over yourself borders on embarrassing. Bánh mì also gets an ingredient spit shine, but the thick pickle slices and extra-soft meat make the sandwich slide apart. The phở arrives with dark, aromatic beef broth hiding a thick nest of vermicelli noodles and slices of filet mignon. And if you just can’t live without ordering brisket, add it as a side order to any bowl." - Chelsea Thomas