"When Wildair opened in 2015, it was the casual overflow restaurant for the more serious tasting menu spot, Contra. But even then, it felt like the main event—mostly because the restaurant catered to the way people want to eat most frequently: casually, with a friend or two, over some great wine and excellent food to share. Cut to 10 years later and Contra is now the more casual sibling—reborn as a cocktail bar with really good snacks. The group also has a bar and restaurant in a hotel in Nomad, their own hotel upstate, and plans to spin off Wildair’s popular Saturday donut special into a whole separate thing. But even with all the offshoots, and in a city now saturated with wine bars, Wildair still stands out. photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte photo credit: Kate Previte The restaurant might be even better now, in an effortlessly cool way. You can walk in almost any evening they’re open and you’ll be led to a table or the bar, to the soundtrack of jazzy French funk. A server recommends a new bottle—something just flown in from Austria—that they can’t wait for you to try. It’s the kind of place that encourages tasting lots of by-the-glass options before committing to your juice, and where someone might slip you a heavy pour even if you only ordered half a glass. There are trendier wine bars out there, but the people-watching at Wildair still goes strong. The restaurant is crammed with folks in loose beanies and well-fitted crewnecks, chatting while they crush plate after plate of things like Atlantic bonito with soft purple olives, and dunk zingy sourdough into olive oil—their phones mysteriously, blissfully, out of sight. photo credit: Kate Previte Though the menu changes, the one dish that’s always non-negotiable is the beef tartare. We’d happily come back to try each seasonal variation, like one we tried in winter, with walnut pesto, ume, and potato crisps. And most of the menu tops out at around $35—though that wagyu strip steak is worth it if you want to splurge, with its divine, thrice-fried potatoes. Food Rundown photo credit: Kate Previte Bread and Olive Oil Someone asking if skin contact is a type of wine or a new Troye Sivan record is synonymous with the wine bar experience. So is sourdough and olive oil. The warm, almost sticky sourdough should be on every table. photo credit: Kate Previte Beef Tartare This is our favorite dish on Wildair’s menu, and quite possibly the best beef tartare in the city. The tartare here changes with the seasons but it's always worth an order—a recent visit had umeboshi, walnut pesto, and an ethereal, starchy potato crisp. It’s rich, silky, and not overdressed. photo credit: Kate Previte Atlantic Bonito With niçoise olives and olive oil, this bonito crudo is supremely savory, almost tasting more of charcuterie than fresh seafood—and it’s delicious. photo credit: Kate Previte Fried Stuffed Olives Each individual component here is salty—the three olives, the stuffing, the breading they’re fried in, the country ham that’s draped on top, and the sauce mornay underneath. Yet somehow, the dish is coherent and balanced, and goes perfectly with their zippy house chilled red—which is bottled just for them by a vineyard in Anjou. If you’re just getting snacks, prioritize this one. photo credit: Kate Previte Pissaladiéclair This pissaladière riff has its own trademark sign on the menu, but we’re not crazy about the savory eclair, piled with cantabrian anchovies, olives, challerhocker cheese, and caramelized onion foam. Despite all those big flavors, it’s a little mild, and we had crispier dreams for the pastry shell itself. photo credit: Kate Previte Mille Feuille Dessert is a big draw at Wildair, and you’ll reliably find something creative and seasonal to try. We loved a towering mille feuille, big enough for two and layered with concord grapes and Guinness foam. The pastry was crunchy and light, the flavor combination excellent." - Will Hartman
