"Some people see a layer-cake-sized mound of butter sitting on a cart near the kitchen pass and think it obscene. To others, it’s a thing of beauty akin to the Mona Lisa or free parking. Little Sparrow, a semi-fancy West Midtown French restaurant from the people behind Marcel, is for those folks. Most of the menu is as slutty as that butter pile. Not for the sake of vulgarity, but because Little Sparrow’s complimentary baguettes taste better with globs of animal fat doused in olive oil and sprinkled with Maldon. There are some very thick fries that get a melted raclette blanket poured from a hot pan. And the stacked cheeseburger on a buttery brioche bun is delivered damn near raw, according to the kitchen's preference. (Defer to the chef on this one, it's great.) A few dishes feel like sins, and not in a fun way. The ricotta-stuffed gnudi tastes bland and pasty, and the sad ravioles du dauphiné are a waste of perfectly good emmental and gremolata. Most plates at Little Sparrow cost less than $40, which is a good deal compared to the city’s other high-end French restaurants, but still a lot to pay if you get a dud. photo credit: Amy Sinclair photo credit: Amy Sinclair video credit: Amy Sinclair Misses aside, this is the kind of food that, if you weren’t in public, might be best eaten via straw to get every drop of velvety, butter-rich sauce or full-bodied broth. But you are in public—around corporate types, date-nighters, and people who unironically call themselves “francophiles” and can’t wait to compare Little Sparrow’s foie gras to the fatty goose liver they ate at a marché in Paris. It's fancy enough to make those people happy, though thankfully never stiff. The waiters wear proper waistcoats, frosty martinis come out in retro glassware, and floral plates look like something you’d find in your great grand’s China cabinet. Eating at Little Sparrow always feels like a special night out that you can brag about to neighbors. And though we still prefer Marcel for an elite steak frites dinner, Little Sparrow is a recommendable, more affordable little sister worthy of multiple return visits, especially if you’re not afraid of a little butter. OK, a lot of it. Food Rundown photo credit: Amy Sinclair Complimentary Bread Service The baguette has the hallmark crispy outer edge. And with a little applied pressure, the bread easily gives, letting you know the inside is soft and freshly baked. Consider the creamy, salty housemade butter the cherry on top. photo credit: Amy Sinclair Frites These very thick fries feel more like building blocks. They are cooked in beef and duck fat (though a vegetarian preparation is available if you ask), so they can sometimes be greasy. Get them topped with a raclette, which is poured tableside. Or opt for the creamy bearnaise sauce, which isn’t as good as Marcel’s version, but good enough that you’ll probably still polish the sauce container dry. photo credit: Amy Sinclair Aleppo Shrimp We’re thankful for the complimentary bread, so we can sop up all the spicy, garlicky broth that comes with these tasty shrimp. photo credit: Hannah Kik Duck Liver Terrine A very good foie gras. Smooth. Salty. Savory. The strawberry preserves add a little sweet pop, and needed freshness. Ricotta Gnudi Skip it. The soft, mild cheese just comes across bland. And even when spreading this on the warm bread, it still feels boring. Just scoop up some more rich, salty butter instead. photo credit: Amy Sinclair Burger This burger is recommended just under medium-rare. It’s tender, juicy, and thick. Between the giant grilled onion ring and buttery brioche buns, the burger has a lot of girth and height, so you might have to break out the knife and fork to take it down. It’s not our favorite burger in the city, nor is it as good as Marcel’s burger, but it’s a nice option if you’re here and craving one. Dover Sole This is another Marcel menu dupe. It’s fileted tableside with a similar brown butter caper sauce. And it’s just fine if it’s not overcooked, but sadly Little Sparrow is inconsistent in this department. Poulet This roasted chicken is a safe, dependable entree that doesn’t disappoint. It’s good old fashioned chicken. La Vie En Rose The steak is tender, well-seasoned, and perfectly cooked. And it’s served with frites for $43. photo credit: Hannah Kik Soft Serve This is one of the dishes that stays with you long after you’ve departed. Silky ice cream comes with either bananas foster (complete with a flambé show) or tart cherry preserves and housemade granola. Both give an excellent balance of sweet, salty, tart or fruity. We would come here just for this." - Nina Reeder
