"Sqirl has long been ripe for parody. During its 2010s heyday, this daytime Virgil Village spot was often a punchline for tired jokes about green juice, avocado toast, and macrobiotic grain bowls—even as it did those items better than anyone else in town. Then came the moldy jam scandal, an internet-fueled controversy that, even today, people still snicker about in line. But through it all, Sqirl has remained more or less the same: a reliable, walk-up cafe with good food and even better people-watching. If you’ve never been to Sqirl—or haven’t been in a while—let us set the scene: Everyone waits in line and orders at the counter, scrambles passive-aggressively for a sidewalk table, and takes group selfies while waiting for their ricotta toast to arrive. In other words, not much has changed here since the start of Obama’s second term. photo credit: Jessie Clapp And though you might imagine the lines are shorter these days, let us dispel that myth—the crowds are still very real. On a recent Sunday afternoon, we spent 20 minutes in line to order and another 40 minutes waiting for food. A visit on an early Tuesday morning yielded similar results. Expect crosstown warriors finally trying their first crispy rice salad, out-of-state tourists, and groups of girlfriends still glistening from their Griffith Park hike. Bizarrely, Sqirl’s sameness is kind of comforting—as if time froze at this particular block over the last decade, even as neighborhood rents haven't. There's still comfort in the food, too. Sqirl’s menu has grown, but you’ll find the same tried and true array of toasts, bowls, sandwiches, leafy salads, pastries, and heartier breakfast plates like shakshuka and french omelets, plus a small chalkboard of daily specials. There’s also a grab-and-go area next door called Sqirl Away, where you’ll find salads and sandwiches packaged for takeout. Even with all the additions, however, the classic staples should be your priority. Dishes like the dill-laced sorrel pesto rice and inch-thick brioche french toast are just as good as they were when Breaking Bad was airing. photo credit: Jessie Clapp Sqirl isn’t perfect. The consistent wait for food can be annoying and hot dishes tend to arrive at room temperature, particularly at peak hours. There are also plenty of dishes outside the classics that aren’t more memorable than what you’d find at a typical all-day cafe. At its best though, Sqirl is a pleasant slice of LA idiosyncrasy: a place to go with post-workout friends and sip a turmeric tonic, take an overhead photo of a piece of toast, and maybe reminisce about simpler times. If you can’t allow yourself that, the joke’s probably on you. Food Rundown photo credit: Jessie Clapp Teas, Tonics, & Juices When at Sqirl, lean into the full Sqirl experience. Which includes ordering a silly little drink. We have no idea if there are actual health benefits to seasonal water kefir, herbal fizzes, or turmeric tonics, but they certainly taste good while basking in the Virgil Village sidewalk sun. photo credit: Jessie Clapp Ricotta Toast Guess what? The most famous dish at Sqirl is still the best. Spongy, crusty brioche toast is lathered with whipped ricotta then striped with whatever fresh fruit jam is on the menu that day. It’s a remarkably simple dish that, even a decade later, no one has figured out how to do better. photo credit: Jessie Clapp Sorrel Pesto Rice Bowl Chances are you’re going to see this dish on every sidewalk table. Follow the masses and order it, but be sure to ask for it “loaded.” That adds on bacon, kale, and avocado, in addition to brown rice, pesto, fermented hot sauce, feta, and poached egg that are included. Sometimes more is more. photo credit: Jessie Clapp Secret BLT This sandwich only makes an appearance during summer months (when tomatoes are in season), so if you see it, pounce. It comes on toasted brioche spread with a generous amount of kewpie mayo and stuffed with a double order of bacon, plus friseé and sweet, peak-ripeness tomatoes. photo credit: Jessie Clapp Chicken & Rice Porridge If we’re under the weather, this is our Sqirl order: a big bowl of shredded chicken and rice stewed in a tomato broth seasoned with ginger, lime, turmeric, and cardamom ghee. We feel better already. photo credit: Jessie Clapp The Latke-Tot The sleeper hit of the breakfast section. This 8-inch-long rectangle oblong hash brown can be ordered one of three way: classic, smoked, or “essie’s” style with beet-cured lox. We recommend smoked, which involves creamy smoked almond schmear and snappy pickled vegetables. Think of it as avocado toast’s cooler, crispier cousin." - Brant Cox
