"With its no-bookings policy and location under a railway arch in Bermondsey, there’s no doubt that 40 Maltby could have aspirations to be the most annoying restaurant in London. Instead, it’s one of the most gentle and lovely. Catch-ups over terrine, fritters, and at least two custard or swiss roll-type desserts are regular." - jake missing, heidi lauth beasley, sinead cranna