"It’s hard to justify most of London’s queues, but since Koya opened on Soho’s Frith Street in 2010, the standard of its lasso-worthy noodles has remained consistently high. Once you’ve foot-tapped your way through the line, you’re met with a counter catwalk and 25 or so heads bowed in appreciation. It’s proudly utilitarian and knowingly transient—an English breakfast udon bowl with gooey tamago egg first thing, solo miso-slurping on the weekend, or stopping by for a crunchy hit of kara-age chicken when you’re not ready for your W1 night to end." - jake missing, heidi lauth beasley, rianne shlebak, sinead cranna, daisy meager