"Going to Chez Bruce is a little like going back in time via Balham. There are twinkly, suited staff who serve you warm bread. There are couples holding hands across the crisp white tablecloths. There are baked alaskas served all over the humming dining room. You get the feeling that everyone could be discussing what to make of that hot young thing Julia Roberts, and that’s part of Chez Bruce’s great comfort. The menu is based on the foundation of classic French technique—there’s a lobster raviolo the size of a tennis ball on the menu. But also has some sometimes good, sometimes odd alternative flourishes: miso glaze, caponata, and the like. " - heidi lauth beasley, jake missing, daisy meager, sinead cranna