"This Civic Center institution is a palace of wood-fired comfort dishes. Just look to their iconic roast chicken atop a well-spiced warm bread salad, or the burger on grilled rosemary focaccia. Next time you have a midday “appointment,” take a long lunch here in the company of oysters and lots of wine. If you’re lucky, you’ll be seated next to the pile of logs so big you could use them to build a somewhat large sailboat. They’re on deck to fuel the wood-fired oven, which is a centerpiece of the dining room and emits enough heat to basically count as a fireplace. " - julia chen 1, lani conway