"You’ll find some of the best phở in Chinatown at this 1980s-era restaurant, which specializes in the regional cuisine of Teochew. All of the soups are under $11, and you have your choice of flat noodles or thin egg noodles. The clear broth in the special beef noodle soup—which comes topped with a heap of fresh herbs—is a textbook example of how to do something simple and very, very well." - will hartman, neha talreja, bryan kim, willa moore, carlo mantuano