"The Dish: Mutton Chop Depending on who you ask, the best piece of meat at Keens Steakhouse isn't a steak at all. It isn't even beef. Like the remarkable artifacts on display all over the Midtown restaurant, including the playbill Lincoln was supposedly holding when he got shot, this protein is a holdover from a different time. Mutton, the meat of adult sheep, was a lot more common when Keens opened in 1885 than it is today. Their mutton chop is 26 majestic ounces of year-old lamb saddle—a thing of fatty, flavorful beauty—served with sautéed escarole. You could order the more reasonably sized "Taste of Mutton," but where's the drama in that?" - bryan kim, sonal shah, willa moore, will hartman, molly fitzpatrick, neha talreja
Noah Devereaux