"Mariscos this exceptional can speak for themselves—all citrus, chiles, and ocean zhush, no gimmicks, reservation mania, or fussy plating. But we’ll say a few words, since that’s what we do here. This Mexican seafood stall inside South LA’s Mercado La Paloma does mariscos 101 executed to razor-sharp perfection. A classic shrimp aguachile in a serrano marinade jolts the sides of your mouth. Meaty pulpo smooches a mesquite grill, and a smoked kanpachi taco gets an edge from salty queso chihuahua and smoky peanut chili oil. Every meal at Holbox sets the bar for the next restaurant we visit. The problem is that 99% of them can’t live up to it. " - brant cox, nikko duren, arden shore, sylvio martins