"Open for: Lunch and dinnerPrice range: $$When Paris chefs want to unwind they head for this little wine bar in Belleville where Argentine-born, self-taught chef Raquel Carena serves up some of the most deeply satisfying food in Paris. The chalkboard menu changes constantly, but Carena loves offal and fish, and her palate favors tart and sweet-and-sour flavors, as seen in dishes like mackerel tartare with smoked vinegar, tuna steak with black cherries, and rabbit and mushroom ragout with red wine sauce. The bohemian soul of rapidly gentrifying Belleville has taken refuge here. Located in the 20th arrondissement.Vibe check: This small spot has become a legendary institution, but don’t expect any frills." - Alexander Lobrano
Pete Kiehart