"There is something darkly thrilling about the clandestine debauchery that takes place behind the heavy baize of Giorgio Locatelli’s Mayfair bordello: a Lecter-ish elegance to the way very nice Chiantis are decanted by candlelight and silken mounds of fresh pasta ripple with butter, Parmesan, white truffle. A room upstairs in the Churchill Hotel is the logical end-point to a meal where the ecstatic suggestiveness of a blowout dinner is rarely far from the surface." - George Reynolds