
"I found a new sandwich shop at 228 Smith Street, between Douglass and Butler streets, that brings Chicago flavors to Cobble Hill. Bobbis Italian Beef opened without much fanfare last weekend, and owner Jason Lux—originally from Champaign, Illinois and a former partner and chef at Brooklyn Crab in Red Hook—started the concept as a stall attached to Fulton Landing Seafood Co. in Dekalb Market before moving into a 30-seat dining room with colorful booths and a counter with bar stools. The expanded menu lists a bakers dozen sandwiches offered as halves (around $10) or wholes (around $20), including muffulettas, Italian combos, chicken tender parm, a roast beef ranch melt, personal pizzas baked in vintage Pizza Hut pans, tater tots dusted in celery salt, and RC Cola. I was told to order the Italian beef: it takes about four days to make—Lux marinates beef top round for 24 hours, braises it in beef stock to medium rare, rests it another day, slices it thin, returns it to its juices, dips the stuffed sandwich in jus before serving, and tops it with pickled carrots and celery. Lux calls himself a "purist" even if he offers a version with cheese; he gets his bread from Mazzola Bakery a few blocks over and imports poppyseed buns, the "nuclear green" relish, and snappy red wieners from Vienna Beef to make Chicago-style dogs that are "dragged through the garden" with mustard, relish, onions, tomato wedges, a pickle spear, sport peppers, and celery salt (order one for $8 or try the beef franks in a "bagel dog"). Bobbis is open noon to 8 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday, and Lux seems to be marinating beef most hours—"Knock on the window, and Ill probably make you something," he says." - Luke Fortney