Laico's

"HIdden midblock in a residential neighborhood not far from the warehouses that line the northern reaches of Newark Bay, Laico’s is typical of the old-guard Italian restaurants that once dotted Jersey City. The cudgel-size pork chop parmesan covers the plate, while the eggplant rollatini — stuffed with scintillatingly fresh ricotta — is just like Italian grandmas used to make. The wine list offers plenty of bargains, and there’s a postage-stamp-size parking lot adjacent to the restaurant." - Robert Sietsema