"The menu at Tomos Parry’s Basque-inspired Brat is deceptively plain — the best ingredients are cooked over fire and served quite austere, but there’s some serious skill in this kitchen. The whole turbot has been all over Instagram and it’s special, stickiness coaxed from the bones thanks to slow and watchful grilling. The ‘beef chop’ is underrated, however — a deeply funky piece of meat given a lick of fire and smoke." - Helen Graves
Ben McMahon/benjaminmcmahon.com