"Unlike so many wannabe usurpers cluttering up pub menus, Hawksmoor’s triple-cooked chips have actually been cooked three times: once in boiling water and twice in the fryer. The end — shatteringly crisp nuggets of gold somewhere between a chip and a roastie — certainly justifies the laborious means. Shunning traditional single-chip strategies, they also offer beef-dripping fries. Get both with the surf-n-turf (a 300g fillet steak and a grilled half lobster with garlic butter) for a delicious study in duality." - Emma Hughes