"Francisco “Paco” Ruano — regarded as one of the most important food figures of the current generation by such seminal Mexican chefs as Enrique Olvera and Guillermo González Beristáin — has led Guadalajara into the modern Mexican era since opening Alcalde in 2013. Ruano uses local product like duck from Tapalpa cooked in adobo; roast suckling pig paired with a variety of moles; garlicky acociles (crayfish); and a fatty dish of frijoles puercos — refried beans strewn with pork neck, pulverized crackling and chorizo, and a pour-over of bean stock. Book early and request a seat at the chef’s table directly in front of the open kitchen, where the tasting menu is paired with Mexican wines, artisanal tequila, and local mezcal made in Jalisco. [$$$]" - Bill Esparza