"No one does a good char kuey teow, so the next best thing is wat tan hor, which is a song of char and gloop that can cover up an okay char kuey teow by enveloping it in slippery egg sauce. Laksamania does a nice, restrained version but restraint with wat tan hor is like restraint during any other purely pleasure making activity — it’s not the point. C&R’s version hits the spot a little better. Its wok hei is more soot than smoke, but at least it’s there, and the egg sauce just barely coddles the noodles, rather than drowning them." - Jonathan Nunn
Nov 4, 2019