"London’s oldest restaurant, founded in 1798, quickly established a name for itself as a safe place for “rakes, dandies and superior intelligences.” It’s little changed to this day, only now there are food critics and tourists in the mix too. Take the scenic route to the table (i.e via the bar, where legendary bartender Brian Silva mixes the Martinis) then settle in for jugged hare or suet pudding in the cosseting surrounds of this swirly-carpeted time warp." - Hilary Armstrong