"Hill Country turns out a faithful version of Central Texas barbecue, inspired by Kreuz Market in Lockhart. Founded by Texas native Marc Glosserman, the brisket is available fatty or lean, in addition to “clod” (beef shoulder). The small chain (there’s another location in Washington, D.C.) makes its own hot links, and they’re damn good. As at basically all great Texas barbecues, the sides are just so-so. The meat is served by the pound on butcher paper with a choice of white bread or soda crackers." - Robert Sietsema
Robert Sietsema/Eater NY