"As the sun sets over a busy stretch of Los Angeles’s Virgil Village neighborhood, Kylie Minogue’s “Can’t Get You Out of My Head” reverberates through the doorway of Budonoki. Inside, groups deep in conversation gather around tables covered with genre-bending bar bites like grilled pork jowl dressed with crying tiger sauce, tteokbokki-inspired Budo-gnocchi, and pandan-coconut soft serve with a tiny shovel nestled in the swirl. The playful menu from chef Dan Rabilwongse marries his Japanese culinary training with his Thai heritage and LA upbringing to create something that’s far more than the sum of its parts. The restaurant is stationed at the heart of a neighborhood whose rapid changes have been marked by the arrival of artisanal jams, natural wine, and bagels that come with eternal lines. But Budonoki approaches being a good neighbor with as much intention as it does its food. The place has quickly become a local fixture — somewhere to stroll in casually for an ice-cold beer (or an umeshu cocktail in a kawaii penguin mug), a sub-$15 set meal on “Makanai Monday,” or just some chicken skewers. For Rabilwongse, who grew up in the area, the restaurant is a homecoming, and he feels a responsibility to offer something of value to the community. But it has become a gathering spot for more than just neighbors; Budonoki regularly welcomes other nearby restaurants into its kitchen, blending its izakaya fare with everything from Korean galbi to Armenian kebab for collaborative dinners that lean into LA’s penchant for culture-mashing. Budonoki’s vision for itself is clear: It’s a space where everyone is welcome, including other chefs; a respite from the seriousness of everyday life; and an expression of the way that flavors collide and evolve in Los Angeles. Once settled at the bar, with a chicken wing in hand and a bottle of sake on the table, the only thing left to do is enjoy. — Rebecca Roland, Eater LA associate editor" - Eater Staff