"This rollicking 14-year-old Nigerian restaurant in Clinton Hill, founded by Lookman Mashood and Nat Goldberg, recently moved into stylish new quarters, still on Fulton Street. (There’s also a new branch in the East Village.) The menu makes few adjustments to perceived American taste, from gluey cowfoot stew and rubbery land snails to fiery goat and fish pepper soup. A first-timer could do worse than a serving of beans and dodo (fried plantain) or boiled yam and egg, both tasty but relatively unspicy. Drinks include palm wine and African beers." - Robert Sietsema