"At either location of Akkapong Earl Ninsom’s casual counter-service restaurant Hat Yai, Southern Thai fried chicken is a glorious mix of dripping-juicy meat and a crunchy, cumin-and-coriander-scented crust. Combination sets come with standard Malay-style curry, flaky roti, drumsticks, and thighs, but wings can be added for $3 each. Two wings on their own, plus sticky rice are also available; customers can order them to-go or gnaw away at one of the blue-and-white-checkered tables." - Brooke Jackson-Glidden, Dianne de Guzman