"Tom Pemberton’s menu in Notting Hill is so marked by his time as head chef at St. John Bread and Wine that it’s practically an homage: the playful “crumbs” on a smoked cod’s roe and little gem dish; the curtness of devilled lamb’s kidneys and mash. With a small, heated terrace, it’s a fine choice for west Londoners in search of the Modern British grail. (H)" - Adam Coghlan, James Hansen