"Another Mayfair departee, The Square’s Phil Howard, opened Elystan Street in Tom Aikens’ old restaurant, and swiftly attracted customers old and new. Howard’s menu is at the high end — pluma of Iberico pork with spare rib kromeski is a typical main — and priced to match, although the lunch menu is marginally kinder. With the move, Howard — without going full new Nordic — has also modernised, and lightened his approach." - Alexander Larman, Adam Coghlan