"A Crown Heights Nigerian pop-up has turned into a standout Nigerian restaurant in Crown Heights, Ligaya Mishan writes in the latest Times Hungry City dispatch. Brooklyn Suya focuses on its namesake dish, a traditional street food of thinly cut, spiced grilled meat, that here is served in bowl form with rice, cherry tomatoes, cucumbers, red onion, raw kale, and other sides. Mishan likes the steak version best — there’s also chicken, shrimp, eggplant, and tofu — for “showing off the full power of the spice.” Sixteen spices go into the rub, and the meat is made further hot with various housemade sauces." - Stefanie Tuder