"Shortly before Celeste opened early last year, I went to the intimate Peruvian restaurant to interview the owners and shoot some photos for a preview story. Chef and co-owner JuanMa Calderon fired up some lomo saltado for a photo, and suddenly the smell of the flames hitting that soy sauce-marinated beef triggered something in me, and I haven’t been able to get enough of the dish ever since. On a recent visit, my friends happily shared entrees with each other, while I hoarded a hefty order of lomo saltado all to myself. Not sorry. —RLB" - Rachel Leah Blumenthal, Terrence Doyle, Dana Hatic