The 38 Essential Restaurants in Los Angeles

"Pa Ord’s chef and owner Lawan Bhanduram makes a mean bowl of kway tiao ruea, or Thai boat noodle soup, an intensely flavorful dish traditionally sold from small boats along Bangkok’s canals and rivers. The pig’s blood-fortified broth is dark and delicious, while simple rice noodles provide the perfect backdrop to slurp up the fragrant flavors. Diners can choose from five different kinds of noodles to pair with the broth, including wide and flat ones that resemble Italian pappardelle or thin and delicate vermicelli. Every bowl is topped with a flourish of fresh herbs, thinly sliced beef, squeaky meatballs, and tender tripe. Spicing can be adjusted to taste but note that the Thai Town rubric is calibrated to local tastes — ordering mild is closer to medium elsewhere. While most everyone orders the boat noodle soup, Pa Ord’s crispy pork (khao kanah mu grob) is also worth trying; it’s slicked in a sweet marinade and served with Chinese broccoli, steamed rice, and a lacy fried egg. — Cathy Chaplin, senior editor" - Eater Staff