"No essential Thai food list in Los Angeles could exclude critical darling Amphai Northern Thai Food Club. That crumbly sai oua (pork sausage) is hugely fragrant thanks to the addition of lemongrass, galangal, and a chiffonade of makrut lime leaf, and the khao soi is as good as one can find in the city. For those really looking to lean into the culinary world of Chiang Rai, where chef and owner Amphai Dunne is from, order the Northern-style larb moo kua, a funkier (but milder) version of larb that features minced pork skin and liver." - Kat Thompson