"Pour out some Tsing Tao for now-deceased Manchurian Legends, which could once legitimately boast the best lamb skewer in Central London. But celebrate with a glug of west coast saison or zingy Zeren Wilson-curated Riesling, too, because in Kiln’s version there is a more than worthy successor. Other dishes may bring more fire and fat and funk, but there are few that encapsulate the specialness of the Kiln / Smoking Goat project with such economy — or provide such a dazzling advertisement of its success." - George Reynolds
