"Operating from a small stall in the Urbanspace food hall near Union Square, Kiang wakes at 5 a.m. to boil 25 chickens a day, picking favorites and plunging them into a simmering, ginger-scented broth until pale and fragrant; he slices the meat into neat, boneless pieces and arranges them over rice seasoned with chicken broth, serving a cup of extra broth for dipping so no other sauce is needed. After his consulting contract expired he opened Lou Yau Kee; it was empty for its first three months but is slowly finding a crowd. The stall also sells a great-uncle’s fried-chicken recipe—lemony breaded chicken-thigh strips over rice with a side of sweet chile sauce—which I found is probably the best thing on the menu." - Luke Fortney